Welcome to the first annual Haunted Hop, a Crochet-A-Long Blog Hop!! I’ve teamed up with three other SPOOK-TACULAR designers in this Halloween inspired CAL that has you hopping from one blog to another for a fun new free crochet pattern from each host! But there’s more! You have the chance to win a free pattern from each designer at the end of the CAL and you have a chance to win a $25 Amazon Gift Card! Want to know how? Create a project and post in the designers’ Facebook community group to be entered to win a free pattern from that designer! Link your projects to the Ravelry listing to be entered to win the Amazon Gift Card, each project counts as an entry! Check out the free candy corn sock crochet pattern below!
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The Crochet-A-Long runs from Monday, October 1st to Sunday, October 7, 2018. Join the Crystalized Designs Crochet Group on Facebook to share your projects for a chance to win a pattern of your choice! Link to the Candy Corn Socks Ravelry listing to be entered for the Amazon Gift Card. After you’re done here, check out Sincerely Pam’s Haunted Hop pattern! If you’re sharing on social media, use #hauntedhop for your WIPs and finished projects so everyone can see! I’d love to be tagged as well!
Not a fan of candy corn? You can use different colors when making these socks… check out all the amazing tester pictures after the pattern!
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Free Candy Corn Sock Crochet Pattern
Materials:
- Yarn: 1 skein Red Heart With Love Yarn, Mango
, 1 skein in Daffodil, and 1 skein in White
- Hook: Size H, 5.0mm
- Scissors
- Yarn Needle
- Measuring Tape
Sweet Treat for your Feet! Share your love of this treat with making yourself or a loved one a pair of Candy Corn Socks! Don’t like the sugary goodness? Any color or colors can work for this quick and easy pattern.
Sizing:
Size | Sole |
5/6 | 9″ |
7/8 | 9.5″ |
9/10 | 10″ |
11/12 | 10.5″ |
Gauge:
14 hdc by 10 rows = 4″
Pattern Key:
- Ch: Chain
- Sc: Single Crochet
- Hdc: Half Double Crochet
- Dc: Double Crochet
- St(s): Stitch(es)
- Slst: Slip Stitch
- *: Repeat instructions between symbol until indicated
Difficulty:
Easy
You are free to sell your work from this pattern but may not share, copy or reproduce this pattern, in part or in whole. Photographs are copyright protected and may not be used. When selling your work, include a link back to this pattern as well as the following, “Pattern by Crystalized Designs”
Special Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain does not count as a stitch unless noted.
Some rounds will be worked in the next stitch, some in the same. This will keep the joining seam in place and on the bottom of the slipper.
There’s an option to make the sock less fitted for a more loose sock or wide shoe sizes.
Toe/Foot Part of Sock:
Ch 11 with White
R1: 4 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc 8 to last ch, 4 hdc in last ch, working down opposite side of ch, hdc 8, join – 24 sts
R2: Ch 1, hdc in same, 2 hdc in next 2, hdc next 10, 2 hdc next 2, hdc next 9, join – 28 sts
R3-4: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
Switch to Mango.
R5: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
R6: Ch 1, hdc same and next 27 sts around, join – 28 sts
R7-8: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
R9: Ch 1, hdc same and next 27 sts around, join – 28 sts
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R10-11: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
R12: Ch 1, hdc same and next 27 sts around, join – 28 sts
R13-14: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
R15: Ch 1, hdc same and next 27 sts around, join – 28 sts
R16-17: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
Stop here for size 5/6. Continue to Heel of Sock below.
R18: Ch 1, hdc same and next 27 sts around, join – 28 sts
Stop here for size 7/8. Continue to Heel of Sock below.
R19-20: Ch 1, hdc next 26 sts, 2 hdc in last, join – 28 sts
Stop her for size 9/10. Continue to Heel of Sock below.
R21: Ch 1, hdc same and next 27 sts around, join – 28 sts
Stop here for size 11/12. Continue to Heel of Sock below.
Heel of Sock:
Slst in next 4 sts.
R1: Turn, working over slsts, sc in next 3, hdc next 3, dc next 2, hdc next 3, sc next 3 – 14 sts
R2: Turn, sc in next 2, hdc next 3, dc next 2, hdc next 3, sc next 2 – 12 sts
R3: Turn, sc next, hdc next 3, dc next 2, hdc next 3, sc next – 10 sts
R4: Turn, sc next, hdc next 2, dc next 2, hdc next 2, sc next – 8 sts
R5: Turn, sc next, hdc next, dc next 2, hdc next, sc next – 6 sts
Do not finish off. Continue to Ankle of Sock.
Ankle of Sock:
For wide shoe sizes or not as tight of a sock, work second number in brackets.
R1: Ch 1, turn, hdc in same and next 5 sts, work [6, 8] hdc evenly down raw edge to next unworked st, hdc next 14 sts, work [6, 8] hdc evenly up raw edge, join – 32, 36 sts
R2-3: Ch 1, hdc in next [30, 34], 2 hdc in next, join – 32, 36 sts
R4: Ch 1, hdc in same and next [31, 35] sts around, join – 32, 36 sts
R5: Ch 1, 2 hdc2tog over next 4 sts starting in same, hdc next [28, 32] sts, join – 30, 34 sts
R6: Ch 1, 2 hdc2tog over next 4 sts starting in same, hdc next [26, 30] sts, join – 28, 32 sts
Switch to Daffodil
R7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over next 2 sts starting in same, hdc next [26, 30], join – 27, 31 sts
R8-13: Ch 1, hdc in same and next [26, 31] sts, join – 27, 31 sts
Finish off and weave in ends. Lastly, make second sock.
Optional: It is recommended to block socks with a sock blocker.







More About Crystalized Designs
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these look as though they would actually stay on the feet so I’m going to try making myself some. I have Raynaud’s so have to keep feet (and hands) warm or they hurt and turn nasty colors. Thank you for sharing. I dont quite get the toe part but probably once I start making them it will work for me. And just as an aside, blocking will work nicely if you’re using wool, cotton, or other natural yarn but when using this Red Heart or any other acrylic or synthetic yarn, blocking is pretty much a waste of time . Thanks again for the great pattern
It says that there is a option to make these for wide feet, but you’ve only included optional sizing at the ankle. Wide sizes are measure at the widest part of the foot, so this pattern does not fit my foot without adjustment.
Hello,
When this went into testing, my wide shoe testers stated that the stretch of the yarn allowed for the width of the foot to be fine but the ankle being where the tightness was. That’s why it’s added at the ankle. You could always add a stitch or two at the widest part of your foot for a better fit.
Best regards,
Crystal
How much yarn of does it take of each color?
I’m sorry but I do not have exact yardage for each color, each size. One skein could make several socks.
in row 3-4 onwards, when you say “2 hdc in last, join – 28” do you mean 2 hdc in remaining stitches in row, or to decrease, or to just finish the row with 2 hdc in the “last stitch”. because by doing that i’m ending up with just increasing the amounts of stitches in a row rather than continuing on with 28. thanks!
It’s written like this to keep the seam in a fairly straight line when joining. You’ll want to skip the first stitch of those rounds and work 2 in the last stitch to keep the same amount of stitches. In round 6, you’ll start in the same stitch. I hope this makes sense. I’ll try to get a video made it not this weekend, next weekend.
I know this is a fairly old pattern and fairly old comment, but if you intend us to skip the first stitch in these rounds can you please edit to add that detail? I've been crocheting for 17 years and I had to come to the comments to figure out how the directions as written for these rounds don't increase one stitch per round. Thank you. 😀
hdc 8, do you mean 8 hdc in each chain ??? After you turn your work
After you turn your work, you need to work a hdc in each of the next 8 chains. Please let me know if you have any further questions. -Crystal
When can you do a video lol 💙
I'll put it on the to-do list!
Hi,
I'm happy to be trying this pattern. However, when I reached row 10 and crocheted 26sts, then 2 started in last st. , I end-up with 2 extra sts.
When we join at the end of each row, are we joining to the ch1 or the first full stitch?? I finished one slipper but the heel and the toe part doesn’t line up so I’m thinking that’s my problem is I’m joining to the wrong stitch.